Overall

• The best indicator of a home’s energy efficiency is lower than expected year-round energy bills – ask the seller to provide 12 months of usage and billing history. Utilities will release this information with a signature from the seller.

Heating & Cooling System:

• Visually inspect the home’s furnace and air conditioner.
  • Is the air filter clean? Is there mastic sealant at the joints where the ductwork exits the unit? Is there a service sticker indicating that the equipment has been well-maintained?
  • Does the air conditioner look reasonably clean? How old is it? Units more than 15 years old will need replacement within 10 years or less.

Attic and Crawl Space (worth poking your head into):

• Attic – measure the amount of insulation…….is it spread evenly? If there’s ductwork, it should be connected, sealed, insulated and hung without kinks.
• Crawl space – should have a vapor barrier covering the dirt and the insulation should be held tightly up against the floor with the foil side hidden (against the floor). If there’s ductwork, it should be connected, sealed, insulated and unkinked.
• Confirm that dryer and kitchen vents are venting to the outside.

Insulation, Windows and Doors:

• Walls constructed with 2x6s are generally insulated better than 2×4 walls.
• Windows should be double-paned and sealed (no moisture between glass). Discoloration on the sill or wall indicates potential issues. Aluminum windows are a red flag for inefficiency.
• Are the bulk of the windows on the south (good) or on the east, west or north?(not as good)
• Look for awnings, overhangs or trees to provide shade to west windows in the summer
• Southern windows should have clear sun exposure during winter months

• Do doors close tightly and have weather stripping in place? Can you see daylight around the edges?

Appliances and Lighting:

• What’s the approximate age of the appliances? Newer appliances are generally more energy-efficient than older models due to more stringent manufacturing guidelines.
• Does the home have energy efficient lighting fixtures or bulbs? Dimmers and occupancy switches are also good options for reducing incandescent lighting usage.

One of the basic principles of thermodynamics is that “heat goes to cold”.  In other words, warm air is always seeking cooler air.  In the summer, this means that when the temperature is hotter outside, it’s trying to get into your house, (assuming it’s cooler inside).   Heat can be transferred through conduction, convection, or radiation.

An example of radiant heat is the solar gain that comes through your windows.  To reduce solar gain, concentrate your efforts on east- and west-facing windows because the sun angles are lower and the rays have a more direct path into your home.

• When replacing these windows, look for low “E” windows with a rating of .35 or less and  a solar heat gain coefficient less than .40
• Less costly options are solar shades, which are custom fitted and removable casings that allow you to see through the window.
• Window film is another option that provides visibility to the outdoors.
• At the very least, close the curtains
• Cheapest option:  aluminum foil, which blocks radiant heat very effectively.

An example of conduction is the heat transferred from your hot car into your garage when you get home.  Avoid putting hot objects in your home until they’ve cooled off, including autos, garbage cans, and indoor/outdoor furniture.

An example of convection is warm air coming into your home via open windows, poor weather-stripping and frequent opening and closing of doors.  Convection is also the phenomenon that occurs when the upper floors get warmer than the lower floors.

• You can use convection to cool your home in the evening by opening windows on opposite sides of and on different levels in your home.
• Set up a strong fan to blow air out an open window on the upper floor.  This will draw in cooler air below, which will force the warm air in the home to rise and exit upstairs via the open window.

The main idea is to keep your home as cool as possible in the first place, to reduce the need for mechanical cooling and increase overall comfort.  Once interior walls and furnishings have heated up, they will take a long time to cool back down.  This brings us to the final tip:

• Flush the home’s air in the morning before 8 a.m.  Open all the doors and windows and run fans for a half hour, then seal everything up tight.

Since some rooms in your house can be 15 degrees warmer at the ceiling than at the floor, ceiling fans are considered the most effective fans.  They circulate the air in a room to create a draft and can reduce the difference between the floor and the ceiling to only 3 degrees.

The biggest bonus?  If you use air conditioning, a ceiling fan will allow you to raise the thermostat setting 4°F with no reduction in comfort.  For each degree the thermostat is lowered (and held there for eight hours), you can save about 1percent on your cooling costs.

• So if you were able to reduce the temperature by 4 degrees around the clock, you’d save about 12 percent on your cooling costs.

Here’s what to look for when shopping for a ceiling fan.

• Shop for an ENERGY STAR® qualified unit.
• Choose a fan that’s reversible and has more than one speed.

- It needs to be reversible in order to provide heat disbursement benefits in the winter.

• Check to make sure the blades are angled at least 10 degrees.
• Match the size of your fan to the size of the room. For rooms 12 feet by 12 feet or less, you can use a 36-inch or 42-inch fan. For rooms up to 12 feet by 18 feet, use a 48-inch or 52-inch fan. If the room’s bigger than that, you’ll probably need at least two fans.
• Purchase a fan that is UL listed with a “damp” rating if placing it in a bathroom or other humid location.

But don’t forget to turn off fans when you leave a room; fans cool people, not rooms.  It’s our skin that makes the wind chill effect work.

Idaho Power’s Home Products program pays cash incentives for purchasing ENERGY STAR qualified household products, including select ceiling fans, appliances and light fixtures. To learn more, visit idaho power dot com slash home products.

Did you know that low-flow showerheads not only save water but energy, too? Less hot water, translates to less energy needed to heat that water.

Nearly 1.2 trillion gallons of water are used for showering in the United States annually. Standard showerheads use 2.5 gallons of water per minute (gpm). Showerheads purchased before 1992, could use even more. But showerheads with the Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) WaterSense label, use 2.0 gpm or less—that’s a 20 percent savings or more! Like Energy Star, Water Sense is a government backed program. Products earning the Water Sense label must use at least 20% less water than standard models and must meet strict quality standards.

The average household could save more than 2,300 gallons per year by installing WaterSense labeled showerheads. Since these water savings will reduce demands on water heaters, households will also save energy. In fact, a household could save 300 kilowatt hours of electricity annually, enough to power its television use for about a year.

Evaluate What You Have

Not sure if its time to replace your showerhead? Here’s a quick test to determine whether you should replace a showerhead:

1. Open the top of an empty half-gallon milk carton so the entire top forms a square.
2. Turn on the shower at the normal water pressure you use.
3. Hold the carton under the shower head. If it fills in less than 10 seconds, you will benefit from a low-flow shower head.

Be safe

Variations in plumbing design and improper installation of showerheads may cause fluctuations in water temperature which can lead to scalding. The EPA encourages consumers to follow manufacturer’s instructions for installing showerheads and to work with a plumbing professional to ensure proper installation, setup and use of the products.

Also evaluate the temperature of your water heater. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends setting your hot water heater to 120 degrees Fahrenheit to help protect yourself from scalding water.

Now is a great time to buy. Idaho Power is partnering with local retailers to bring down the price of low-flow showerheads. Visit www.idahopower.com/homeproducts for details.

To learn more about water conservation and water saving products, visit the EPA Water Sense program at www.epa.gov/watersense.

A good place to start is to reduce the amount of time the filter runs, using as little time as possible while still keeping the pool clean. Usually 4 to 6 hours per day during the summer is sufficient. This action alone may reduce annual electrical consumption by 40 to 50 percent. Consider running your pool pump during off-peak hours which can help reduce demand for electricity during a time when the cost of power is at a premium.

Automatic pool cleaners should be used 3 to 4 hours daily during the summer. Start the pool sweep 15 minutes or more after the filter pump is running and stop the sweep 15 or more minutes before the filter pump. Use a wall brush and leaf skimmer frequently.

Make sure you have an accurate pool thermometer and keep the pool temperature at 78 degrees or lower. If you only use your pool during the weekends, reduce the water temperature by 8 to 10 degrees during the week. Shelter your pool by using hedges, cabanas and fencing as windbreaks.

Finally, you may want to consider an active solar pool heating system. With this system, filtered pool water is pumped into the tubing of the collector panels. The sun’s heat is transferred from the panels to the water and the heated water is returned to the pool. Automatic controls are available to turn on the system when there is enough sun to heat the pool water and off when no heat is needed.

Now, you can check out an Energy Efficiency Kit from your local library. The kit features a Kill A Watt™ meter, a device that can measure the energy consumption of appliances in your home, instructions for using the Kill A Watt™ meter and tips for saving energy.

Simply plug the Kill A Watt™ meter into a standard, three-prong electrical outlet, then plug your appliance into the meter. The meter will measure the amount of power being used, helping you identify potential savings by either unplugging items when not in use or replacing the item with a more energy efficient model.

For instance, if you frequently leave your TV on all day for “background noise,” but no one is watching it, you can measure how much power it uses in a set period. From there, you can multiply the power used by your current electricity rate (found on your bill) to see how much money you can save by turning it off when it’s not being watched.

Visit www.lili.org/energy to find a participating library near you.

Consider a skylight or solar light tube. They add natural light – brightening dark spaces and reducing the need for artificial lighting. But skylights can also enhance solar heat gain and both products can let in drafts. To ensure the best performance make sure to purchase right and install smart. Then let the sun shine in.

Look for Energy Star qualified skylights rated for the Northern Climate zone. Energy Star skylights and solar light tubes are rated by climate zone and are evaluated using whole-unit performance criteria. With whole-unit performance, not only the glass meets energy efficient standards, but all the materials from frame to design feature energy efficient components.

Energy Star skylights include:

• Double-pane glass with protective coatings to reduce heat gain and protect interior spaces from the fading affects of direct sunlight.
• Framing materials that reduce heat transfer and help insulate.
• Warm edge spacers to optimize the distance between panes and help insulate pane edges.

Pick the right location: Skylights and solar light tubes illuminate interior spaces in the daytime. Consider placement in locations where you would normally turn on the lights.

Orientation can affect the type of light you receive and solar heat gain. Skylights on north-facing roofs provide fairly constant but cool illumination. Those on east-facing roofs provide maximum light and solar heat gain in the morning. West-facing skylights provide afternoon sunlight and heat gain. South-facing skylights provide the greatest potential for desirable winter passive solar heat gain than any other location, but often allow unwanted heat gain in the summer. Also, be aware of trees, rooflines or structures outside and how they will shade your skylight or solar light tube during different seasons.

Consider size and slope. According to the Department of Energy, a skylight should never be more than 5 percent of the floor area in rooms with many windows and no more than 15 percent of the room’s floor area for spaces with few windows. The optimum slope of the skylight will maximize solar heat gain in the winter and minimize it in the summer. Also consider distance from roof to ceiling to determine if a skylight or solar light tube will work best.

Install it right. Even the best skylights and solar light tubes can be drafty if they are poorly installed or poorly insulated. To ensure quality installation, follow manufacturer instructions and review manufacturer warranty information. Some manufacturers require specific certifications for installers. Also, ask your installer for credentials and check with references and the better business bureau.

Already have light tubes or skylights? Condensation or drafts may be signs of leaks or poor insulation. Fix them and enjoy a more comfortable home.

Sources: U. S. DOE http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/windows_doors_skylights/index.cfm/mytopic=13650

Energy Star

www.energystar.gov

Summer is here and it’s a great time to make energy efficient improvements to your home. Some of the energy efficiency programs Idaho Power offers require using a professional contractor for installation to receive a cash incentive. While Idaho Power does not install equipment, give estimates or endorse specific contractors, here are a few recommendations to help you find a quality contractor.

Whether you choose to search online or consult with trusted family and friends, do your homework before hiring a contractor. Visit websites, like AngiesList.com, that allow you to search for contractors in your area and view customer generated ratings and feedback. Also, consider checking the company’s Better Business Bureau (BBB) rating—they are accessible both online and by phone. The BBB also offers many online articles and resources for selecting specific types of contractors.

Some Idaho Power programs, like the Heating & Cooling Efficiency Program, offer a list of participating contractors at Idaho Power’s website. While others, like the Home Improvement Program, allow you to choose any insulation company.

Take note: the average insulation installation cost in Idaho Power’s service area is about $430, but could be less.

Idaho Power recommends contacting a minimum of three contractors for bids, asking them for references and checking them out. Here are a few questions to ask their references:
• What service or installation did the contractor provide?
• When did the service/installation occur?
• What did they like the most, and the least, about the contractor?
• Would they recommend the contractor to a friend? Would they use the contractor again?
• How satisfied were they with the contractor and the project overall?

Also, confirm the contractor is licensed, insured and how long they have been in business. Finally, after asking the contractor all of your questions, get everything in writing before you authorize the contractor to begin work. Ask them to make their final quote as comprehensive as possible,  including everything:  the cost and the scope of the work that will be performed, what is included in the warranty, etc.

For more information on Idaho Power’s energy efficiency programs, visit www.idahopower.com/energyefficiency.

If you have problems with a contractor that cannot be resolved by working directly with them, you can file a complaint with the:
• Better Business Bureau: www.bbb.org or (208) 342-4649
• State of Idaho Office of Attorney Genera
• Idaho Bureau of Occupational Licenses
• State of Oregon Office of Attorney Genera
• Oregon Licenses, Permits and Registrations

Our safety philosophy that “All Injuries Can Be Prevented” is supported in an environment where all employees are empowered and expected to be safety leaders. Our commitment to a culture of safety also extends to you, our customers. Use the following important safety information to keep you and your family safe around electricity and power lines.

• Keep flammable materials clear of electric heaters.
• Replace electric cords that are frayed or damaged.
• Keep electric appliances away from water-filled sinks or tubs.
• Don’t overload an outlet with too many cords.
• Stay away from power poles or transmission towers.
• Fly kites in open areas away from overhead power lines.
• Always look up and look around when moving a ladder or equipment that may come in contact with overhead power lines.
• If you see a fallen power line, keep your distance and call Idaho Power at 1-800-488-6151.

Idaho Power wishes you a happy and safe 4^th of July holiday!

Since the average American family does about 400 loads of laundry a year, today’s conversation is about getting good laundry results while reducing energy use and money spent.

Clothes Washing Review

• If you need a new washer, it’s a great time to take advantage of incentives for ENERGY STAR® qualified models.
  • Idaho Power’s Home Products Program ($50)
  • State of Idaho’s Energy Efficient Appliance Rebate Program ($75)
• Wash in cold or warm water when possible and ALWAYS choose the cold water rinse.
• Wash full loads and use the right kind and amount of detergent.
  • Too much leaves soap deposits and lint inside the washing machine, contributing to mold and odors and can also plug ports and filters, contributing to machine failure.
  • TIP: Mark cap on the outside and inside with a permanent marker. Most “medium” loads use about half of what the “natural” cap line would require.
  • If you need HE (high efficiency) detergent, use it. Excess suds can lead to prolonged rinse cycles.

Clothes Drying¹ & Energy

We live in an ideal climate for drying clothes outdoors during a large portion of the year. So recommendation #1 is to take advantage of the free, renewable energy provided by the sun. There are many innovative new clothes lines and racks available via the internet and at local hardware stores. But if you can’t air-dry, save by following these tips:

• Run your clothes through an extra spin-cycle before placing in the dryer.
• Dry similar fabrics together.
• Dry multiple loads in quick succession to take advantage of residual heat.
• Use the automatic setting with the control set to the midpoint. Use “Less Dry” to leave clothing damp for ironing. The extended tumble will prevent wrinkles if you don’t hear the buzzer and remove the clothes immediately.
• Clean the lint filter after every load (also helps prevent fires).
• When choosing a dryer, insist on a moisture sensor. Over-drying can damage or shrink fabrics and moisture sensors minimize that possibility as well as the needless waste of energy.
  • May not be obvious on the label – check the literature and visit the manufacturer’s Web site or refer to Consumer Reports.

More Information

Tips tab at www.idahopower.com/energyefficiency.

1 There’s no such thing as an ENERGY STAR® qualified dryer because most dryers use similar amounts of energy.